St Louis Dog Blog

Avoid Dog Behavioral Problems

2012-01-18T08:07:00.000-08:00

Leadership:
There's a lot of talk about Leadership and how to dominate your
dog. That's Not what we want you to think of in terms of
Leadership. Effective leadership is taking the role of the decision
maker, the food provider, the caretaker. As a dog owner you are
already making decisions for your dog on a daily basis. Such
things as when it's time to get up or when your dog goes outside.

Simple everyday decision making should be second nature to
the dog owner but sometimes it isn't. Some pushy dogs out there
are making too many decisions of their own and most times
these are bad decisions.

A dog who barks and growls at everyone trying to enter the
home is taking on the role of leader. He is guarding his home.
Not your home. Not your family. But his home and his people.
This may sound like a good idea. Everyone wants to feel
protected and a dog who alerts to noises isn't a bad thing. But it
is your decision as leader to determine who enters your home. A
dog who feels he owns his castle is one step away from
correcting you or someone in your family for making a decision
he doesn't approve of.

To be a leader to your dog takes giving your dog some rules.

Not rushing the door and jumping on visitors
Not dragging you around on leash
Not begging for food
Staying out from under foot
No running through the house like a wild dog.
.....These are just a few.

Another way to show leadership is to put your dog on a feeding
schedule. Twice a day is good. Let him know the food comes
from you, the provider, and wait for your dog to be calm before
placing the bowl on the floor. Remove after 10 to 15 minutes
whether he is finished or not. He won't starve. And don't be
manipulated into coercing him to eat at each meal. Put it down
and walk away.

A good leader is also a good caretaker. This means you need to
look after the well being of your dog. Make sure his vaccinations
are up to date, his diet consists of a well balanced food, and his
grooming is attended too as needed. Exercise is also important.
As his caretaker it is your responsibility to see to his mental and
physical well being. A dog lacking in exercise becomes
overweight and has an increase risk of joint pain and other
health related issues. A dog who is lacking in mental stimulation
becomes a nuisance with constant need of attention. Frustration
from a lack of exercise, mental or physical, can manifest into
chewing, running around like he has no off switch, excessive
barking, or mouthiness.

To sum it all up.. A good leader is a good dog owner. Someone
who makes the right decisions for their dogs safely, health, and
well being.

Training:
It is never too soon nor too late in a dog's life to begin training.
Though the sooner you start the less time your dog has to
learn bad habits. Training creates good habits by giving your
dog something constructive to do in place of something
undesireable. It teaches your dog self control so your dog has
the ability to make good decisions.

Training gives your dog an understanding of what you want
from him. It's not about doing a trick to get some laughs. Being
able to call your dog back to you out of harms way goes a long
way in extending your dog's life. When we teach a dog to Sit or
Down we expect the dog to stay there until told otherwise.

Training takes time for your dog to understand. It also needs to
happen outside of the home around real world distractions. If
you only work with your dog in a class setting or in the home
your dog will likely not understand the command in a new
setting. Dogs don't generalize as we do. That's why we have to
teach Sit in many different settings for the dog to truely
understand what Sit means. The same goes for all other
commands too.

Repetition, Repetition, Repetition. The more you work with your
dog the better trained your dog will be. Imagine a child learning
the alphabet. The child repeats it over and over and over until
they no longer have to think about it. It becomes second
nature to them. Give your dog plenty of training time until he
has a complete understanding of what he is learning.

How do you know when your dog is trained? Test. Look at your
dog and say his name. Now say Sit. Did he sit? How about
Down. Did he Down? How about from across the room. Well?

If your dog can do these and others on the first command
within a few seconds of asking then your dog has a good
understanding of the command. Now take it further and find
some distractions. Can your dog do the commands now? Yes.
Then find more difficult ones.

Training is never really over. It's an ongoing process and
relationship. If you give up on it, it will go away.

Management:
This is what we do to make things easier on us, the dog, and
the situation. Managing your dog can be crating him when
company comes to teaching a Place command so he stays on
his bed while company visits. Management can also be utilizing
training tools; such as for aggression, a Halti can be worn in
public to keep a reactive dog safe by controlling his mouth. A
tether can keep a puppy attached to you to make sure he
doesn't wonder off and pee. Management can also keep dogs
safe in a situation of a multi dog family. Crating may be needed
to while the owners are not home so no fights break out.

The better you manage your dog/dogs, the less likely bad
behavior will occur. Management doesn't replace training but
goes hand in hand with it. We need to be aware of what can
happen at any given time and use some sort of management
(a learned command, restraint, interference, confinement, ect)
to keep mistakes from happening.

What ever your dog's age Now is the time to be the adult in the
relationship. A dog's mind is as moldable as a child's. Give the
correct guidance and education and anything is achievable.
Teach your puppy or dog as much as possible and they will
grow into a well mannered companion that will be welcomed
everywhere.

I am a Dog Trainer

2011-10-06T19:42:00.000-07:00

I began as a dog trainer because I wanted to help dogs. As a shelter volunteer I saw dogs sitting in kennel runs, not just for months but sometimes for years due to behavioral issues. Some were just hyperactive dogs that needed to be taught some manners, some just needed to learn how to play well with others; none were unadoptable. But someone needed to take seriously the fact that these dogs had behavioral issues. Instead, they were adopted out and returned, sometimes multiple times.

I spent three years educating myself through online courses, taking dogs through different trainers. Reading books, watching DVD’s, and just watching dogs. Yet, after all that, I still didn’t think I had the answers I needed to truly help dogs with behavior problems. There was just too much information out there pulling me in too many different directions at once.

It has now been 8 years since I decided I wanted to be a dog trainer, a person who works with dogs. Not an instructor, like some people; I wanted to be hands on so that I could analyze, teach, and experience the development of the canine education process. Three years ago I finally settled into the trainer I wanted to be. A balanced trainer. I wanted to be the kind of trainer that looked at a dog, accessed the situation, and used the means necessary to train the dog to its fullest potential. If that meant using a prong collar, a remote e-collar, a gentle leader, markers, toys, food, metal or nylon choke collars, then so be it.

My job is done when a dog can live in a relaxed state of mind and have the understanding of each basic “word” that it has been taught. If this helps give a dog a better, healthier relationship with its human companions and keeps it in its home for the rest of its life, then I feel I’m successful in what I’m doing.

With this reasoning, I will not apologize for telling a dog “No”. I will not let anyone berate me because I believe in discipline, a state of being, as well as in giving a correction for a bad decision. I believe discipline does NOT equal abuse and I believe you cannot train a dog to its fullest potential by reward alone. To have balance you must have right and wrong.

My training is not positive reinforcement only, nor is it punishment based, it is based on balance. I use all 4 parts of the **Learing Theory of Dog Training , not just 2.

**The Four Quadrants of Operant Conditioning.

Positive Reinforcement—

Add somethingthat will increase the chance of the behavior happening again.

(Treat or Toy rewardafter asking for Sit)

Negative Reinforcement-

Remove somethingthat will increase the chance of the behavior happening again.

(Ecollar tapstops once the dog is in the Sit position)

Positive Punishment—

Actively doingsomething that decreases the chance of the behavior happening again.

(Leashcorrection, squirt bottle )

Negative Punishment—

Removingsomething from the dog that will decrease the chance of the behavior from

happening again.

(with hold treatreward, remove self or dog from situation)

Dog Training with a Remote Ecollar

2011-08-16T10:01:00.000-07:00

Like any other type of dog training, Remote Ecollar Dog Training is just that... Training.

Dog training itself is about teaching 'words' to your dog with 'actions' associated with them. You can continue telling your dog No! No! No! with little effect on their behavior or you can teach words with actions that instruct your dog on what To Do.

"Lie Down" or "Go to bed" instead of demanding attention.

"Sit" instead of jumping on guests. "Off" to interrupt your dog before its steals your lunch. "Come" to call your dog back before it gets to the busy street. These are all instructive commands that once learned lead to a better behaved, less stressed and anxious dog.

The modern use of the Remote Ecollar is to use the tool as an association to help teach your dog what To Do, NOT what not to do. It can, of course, be used as a correction once training and understanding of commands have been learned but for our purposes we use it as an association.

Outdated models, yes, gave quite a jolt of a correction but modern models made by reputable companies like Dogtra and Tritronics have a wide range of levels and some start at such extrememly low levels that they are undetectable by most humans. This gives us the ability to tailor our training to even the most sensitive dog by finding the just right level that works comfortably with the dog.

Walk up behind two people engaged in a converstaion and at the same time tap each on the shoulder until one turns around. They may both turn at the same time or one may not feel your tapping until the other's attention has been drawn away. Everyone feels sensations on the skin differently. The same with dogs. There is no magic working level.

Once we've found the dog's working level training begins. This means teaching the dog what action we want. We do this by molding or luring the dog into the correct possition. As we teach each new command we build duration of maintaining the command, add distance from the handler/owner while maintaining the command, and begin generalizing the commands to many different places and situations. This gives us a dog that understands "Sit" at home when the doorbell rings as well as "Sit" while you are talking to someone you've met while out on a walk.

As your dog gets more freedom from training, your Remote Ecollar gives you piece of mind that if your dog is out of earshot or too caught up in what they are doing, you can always reach out and touch them to get their attention back.

So remember, Dog Training is about teaching and once you have a proper foundation training possibilities with your Remote Ecollar are endless.

Canine Scent Games

2011-04-18T12:11:00.000-07:00

If you've not heard about Canine Scent Games yet your dog is missing out on some new ways to have fun. In this 5 week class we teach the dogs to hunt out treats or toys in a controled environment that sets every dog up as a winner.

Canine Scent Games are great for mental stimulation and are great for confidence building for shy dogs and puppies. There is no age limit so the active senior dog can come join too!

The class starts with a row of boxes and builds the search out from there. Each week the difficulty level increases as the dogs learn to look up, down and under objects as well as having to hunt around more and more obstacles.

Though it may sound easy the goal to this introductory class is all about teaching the dog "how" to use their nose without relying on sight. After the introductory class students are encouraged to sign up for Intro to Odor classes where the dog's nose is put to the test of sniffing out a scent other than food. This is where learning to use their nose comes into play big time.

It's all for fun and fun for all! Look for more classes starting soon. Check out the video of the Scent Games

My Dog's Not My Child, He deserves Better

2011-04-04T11:54:00.000-07:00

For those of you that insist your dogs are your children, I challenge you to treat your kids like your dog for one week and see if you still think your dog deserves the lowly status of "Child".

For those of you who have no human children or whose children have grown don't fret, just borrow a kid of a friend or relative or bring over the grandkids for a week. They'll love you for this! What? You can't find any kids to hang around for a week. That's ok, ask your spouse or a friend or, heck, go grab that homeless guy off the street corner and tell him you want to treat him like your dog for a week. He'll think he's won the lottey!

Heck, anyone will jump for a chance when they find out that you're going to:

Let them lay around in your bed all day. Pick at their dinner and snub it so you'll feed them what's on your plate. Constantly lavish them with affection. Spend hundreds of $ on them at specialty stores for things they really don't need. Let them in and out of the house everytime they look at the door. Look the other way when they jump on the sofa between you and your special person growling and demanding attention. Laugh and joke while you hump their 80 year Nanna's leg.

Well, ok, maybe you don't treat your dog this good. But if you really treated your dog like your "child" your dog would go to school to become a good citizen, greet people politely, eat what is put in front of them, and never be aggressive to anyone.

Will your Dog get enough exercise during the cold months

2010-12-06T14:42:00.000-08:00

If you’re like me you’d rather wrap up in warm fuzzy fleece and hide under the blankets than face below freezing temps. But when the dogs need to get outside in the morning I begrudgingly put on the winter wear and brave the cold. The rest of the day our walks and other outdoor activities start tapering off to only as needed outings. Standing out in the freezing cold waiting for a dog to ‘take care of business’ is sometimes more exposure to the elements than most of us want.
　
Like us our dogs can get used to a comfy sedentary life indoors during the cold months. This can take a toll on my dog’s health and well being so we find other outlets for exercise and mental stimulation.

Of course, braving the cold and going for a walk is great exercise, it’s not always possible this time of year so let’s look at other possibilities:

Get our with your dog to dog friendly stores. Lowe’s, Bass pro, pet stores, are great places to walk around with your dog.

Train your dog to walk on a treadmill.

Designate an indoor area for dog play. Dog proof an extra bedroom or basement for a some tug games and toy tosses.

Find Me! This is always fun and gets your dog moving. Just wait until your dog isn’t paying attention and hide in the other room. Call your dog or squeak a toy to get them going.
Where’s the treat. Hide a favorite treat or toy somewhere in a room and have your dog search for it.

Puppy pushups. This having the dog Sit and then Down and then back into a Sit for several repetitions. Helps build muscles too.

Sniffer Mind games. I do these with my older dogs to keep their mind and nose tuned. All it entails is presenting new foods and other smells to your dog to sniff and in some cases taste. Chapstick, bar soap, unusual spices can get your dog’s nose going (or backing away). It also lets your dog know that not everything you have is an edible tasty treat like they believe it to be. Celery, carrots, green beans, small bits of apple, or bananas are fun food treats for your dog to experiment with.

Obedience classes. It goes with out saying that learning something new is great mental stimulation.

Use the coming winter months as an opportunity to bond with your dog. We offer many ways to get over cabin fever so let us know if we can help.

We have a lot of opportunities for you and your dog to get out this Winter.

Scent Detections Fun
Trick Classes

Why Teach Heel Command

2010-09-29T18:52:00.000-07:00

Heel is a position, normally on the handler’s left side, that the dog keeps while the handler is walking. In a formal Heel the dog’s shoulders are in line with the legs of the handler at all times even as the handler turns one way or the other. When the team comes to a stop the dog sits automatically.

I know, I know, this is too technical for what you want to do with your dog and it just doesn’t fit your casual walk around the neighborhood. But let’s look at it differently.

For clients not wanting a “formal” Heel with their dog I teach “Let’s Go”. This is kind of like Heel in that I want the dog to follow along and turn in the direction I’m headed and to not pull on the leash. Sounds good enough but “How” you ask “Do you achieve this goal”. Well, I’m going to tell you. Just be patient for a moment.

First, the importance of Heel, or as we are going to call it “Let’s Go”. Let’s Go puts you dog in a position to follow you. Following puts you in the position of leader. We want our dog to follow us for several reasons not just because Cesar Millan says we should all be good leaders.

One.. If your dog is following you they are watching you. This means you can get their attention, they know when you turn, and they have less to fear with you confidently leading the way.

Two.. When meeting strangers on the street it is always best for the owner to meet the person first then introduce the dog. Not everyone enjoys Fido’s wet nose approach to a greeting. Some people are actually afraid of dogs and others just find it offensive to have a dog of any size slobber, drool, and leave paw prints on their pant legs. It’s a social thing.

Three.. If you’re not leading the way, who is? If your dog is out in front, dragging you on the leash, or going to the end of his retractable leash to get as far away as possible, then your relationship with your dog is backwards. “But this is his free time” you say, or, “She’s a dog, she’s supposed to lead the walk”. Well, I say “Freedom is earned”. Going for a walk with your dog under control by your side is a much better habit for the dog then coughing and gagging and straining on the leash and peeing on every mailbox they encounter. Structure your dog’s walk and give them free time when the walk is over or at a half way point and then get them back under control for the rest of the walk. I’m sure you would do the same with your kids if you walked them to the park.

On to the How To part.

Right turns, right turns, right turns. Oh, and some about turns too. By turning AWAY from your dog the dog is automatically in the following position. If he jogs out in front again, make another right turn or about turn (an about turn is turning right and going the opposite direction in which you started).

The best way to hold the leash while doing this exercise is to put your right thumb through the loop of the leash and close your hand around it. Put your left hand around the leash just under your right hand. Hold the leash at waist level and you’re all set.

This is an exercise that needs to be done with purpose but not enough force with smaller dogs that it yanks them around. Be mindful of the size of your dog as you do this. Big, tough pullers may need a chain collar or pinch collar but still, we are not correcting the dog, we are just changing direction.

You need to do this every time the dog gets out in front of you. When the dog is staying with you around your yard and in your neighborhood, it’s time to practice around distractions in as many new places as you can. If you do this you will have a dog that routinely follows you and doesn’t drag you on the leash. I bet that after a few weeks of doing this routine as directed you will even see an improvement in your dog’s attention to you when he’s not on a leash. He will be so impressed by your new leadership skills that he may even begin to relax more around the house.

Continuing Education at Ecollar palooza

2010-09-25T13:55:00.000-07:00

I feel that as a dog trainer it's important to continue my education. That's why I've attended That's My Dog Ecollar-palooza two years in a row. This is a great seminar that is open to all dog trainers but is especially welcoming to ecollar trainers.

By attending these seminars I am able to offer fun and exciting new classes like Jump class and Nose works that will be starting up soon. But that's not all I get from the four day event. It gives me knowledge that I am able to pass to my clients and helps me as a professional too. It's a way of growing personally and business wise as well, but, personally I feel that the friendships and new contacts that I gain from the week is greatest part of the whole event.

Thanks Robin and Liz of That's My Dog for putting on another great event! I can't wait for E7 next year. But maybe, just maybe, the porta potties can be closer to the field next year.

Agility and Disk Dog Seminar

2010-06-15T06:05:00.000-07:00

Cyndy Douan of the Georgia Dog Gym put on a great hands on presentation hosted by PJ The Dawg Trainer in Foristell, MO.

Learning the correct way to teach your dog how to do a jump or obstacle from the very beginning makes the rest of the course run much smoother. Agility is much more than blowing through a set of obstacles as fast as your dog can run. Doing the obstacle correctly, safely, and confidently comes first.

The seminar taught us to work on jump drills that in itself can be great fun for the dog! and help with direction changes and working away from the handler, we learned the correct ways to teach the dog weave poles without having to lure the dog through the whole line, and we learned the importance of the Pre Agility work that can be done at home without the need of obstacles.

I highly recommend Cyndy's approach to the sport even if you are just wanting to have fun with your dog. As for the Disk Dog part, well, I had no idea there was so many correct ways and non correct ways to hold and toss a frisbee and to do so that the dog can catch it correctly on top of that. I have a lot of practicing ahead of me just so DeeDee can go out and catch a few. Maybe I'll get good enough at it to keep the disk in the air long enough for her to actually catch one!

A Place Command

2010-01-04T08:50:00.000-08:00

Do you have a dog who paces around the house and just won't settle down. Maybe you have a ball obsessed dog who wants to play every minute possible even while you're eating dinner. You may have that overaffection seeker who will paw at you until you finally give into endless petting.

Teaching a Place command can be a big help with these dogs. Not only does it keep them from being underfoot all the time but it also teaches self-control which leads to a calmer more balanced dog.

After we teach the foundation of the Place command we can turn any elevated or edged object into a Place. Your car can be a Place, as well as, a park bench, a chair, your dog's bed, a tree stump, and for a very useful purpose like the scale at the vet's office.

The Place command is one of the most useful and fun commands to teach a dog. There are unlimited possibilies for new and exciting things to Place on and your dog will experience a sense of accomplishment with each new object.

Focusing on the Positive

2009-10-03T13:39:00.000-07:00

Focusing on the positive will keep our dog’s training fun for both us and him. Keep stationary commands calm and pleasant and call the dog enthusiastically. Corrective commands, such as “Off” and “Leave it”, should be firm but not shouted or directed with anger.

While working with our dog it is easy to get frustrated and correct all the mistakes our dog makes and forget one of the most important parts of learning: Praise. Praise plays a big part in learning and lets the dog know a correct behavior has been performed well and that we are happy with his response.

For example, say you call your dog and he quickly comes to you. The dog is then praised for a correct response. Now say your dog approaches your toddler’s stuffed toy which the child is currently holding. You correct with “Off” or “Leave it” and your dog backs away and is redirected to some other activity or one of his own toys. Your dog deserves praise for following the command. Keep in mind that without the praise, the command becomes nothing more than a correction.

To keep our training positive we treat all commands the same. As the dog learns the commands he is always rewarded with praise for the correct response. Remember, we want the dog to gladly drop what’s in his mouth just as much as we want the dog to enthusiastically come running to us when called.

Use your Training Tool correctly

2009-08-18T13:47:00.000-07:00

There are many wonderful tools on the market to help teach a dog how to not pull on leash and walk next to an owner. Unfortunately, most of the time these tools are attached to the dog without any concern as to how to use them properly.

Headhalters can take some time for a dog to acclimate to the feel and pressure on the muzzle but once the dog has settled into the headhalter it can be used to guide a dog into heel position and keep him there. Care should be taken to avoid harm to the dog's neck by not forcing the dog's head sideways or downward into an unnatural position. To use the headhalter properly, the owner should have the dog next to their leg in heel position and hold the leash so the dog has just enough slack to walk by the owners side. Any forging ahead should be met with a slight twist of the wrist or slight tug backward. Never give a leash correction with a headhalter!

Pinch collars are said to be power steering for dogs but instead of letting your dog pull at will against the prongs of the collar why not teach him how to avoid being uncomfortable. First, fit the pinch collar so that it is snug but not tight. Have the dog walk at heel position and any forging should be met with a twist of the wrist to quickly tighten and loosen the collar. For stronger dog's, pop the leash towards your mid body or lower and make a quick about turn to get the dog back in heel position. Never let the leash tighten. As soon as the dog is out of position, correct with the leash pop and about turn. Soon your dog will be walking nicely without straining on the prongs.

Choke or Check chain collars need to be fitted so they can release their grip and not sit tightly on the dog's neck. With your dog facing you, make the collar into a circle and let out some slack on one end. Put the collar on the dog when the collar is in the shape of a "P". This will allow the collar to loosen quickly after a correction. If the collar is put on in the "q" shape, it will tighten and remain tight. A properly fit choke collar will only have 3 or 4 inches of extra chain extending after placement on the dog's neck. Any less and there will not be enough slack for a correction. Any more you will have to make bigger movements to make a simple correction. As with the prong collar, never let the leash tighten. Correct by giving a quick pop and doing an about turn. Practice this routine any time the dog is out of heel position and soon enough your dog will be walking nicely on a loose leash.

Remote collar FAQs

2009-08-18T13:43:00.000-07:00

This is questions and concerns about the ecollar (remote collar) followed by a few facts.

My dog won't take food from my hand.

**Remote collar training does not require the use of food though sometimes it can come in handy.

Headhalters are more humane.

**The ecollar is a humane method of dog training when used as instructed. Headhalters can contort the dog's neck causing injury to muscles or bones as the dog struggles to get used to the nose loop or as an owner constantly tugs the dogs head back toward them as the dog pulls forward.

Petstore training is cheaper.

**Yes. It is. You get what you pay for. A qualified remote dog trainer will take your dog far beyond basic on leash training in the same time or less than the Big Petstore training programs.

You can't use a shock collar on a small dog.

**First, let's get away from calling the device a shock collar. Quality ecollars have a different feel than bark collars or invisible fence collars. It feels more like static and with the lower levels of stimulation on todays quality collars it is easy to tweak the feel so that the dog works on a level that is just perceivable to them. So, yes they are safe on small dogs as well as big dogs.

I don't want to stress my dog out.

**Any training program can cause a little stress during the learning stages. During this time your dog is receiving structure he may have never had to deal with before and learning self control. This takes a lot of concentration on his part and mental stress that's no different than a human child having to study their school work. It is also a good workout for the dog when other exercise is not available.

Ecollar training is for stubborn dogs, dogs with behavioral problems, or as a last resort for bad dogs.

**Totally false. Trainers today are using the ecollar as a training tool and not exclusively as a correction device. These methods work for any dog not just problem dogs.

An ecollar on a dog aggressive dog will only make the dog more aggressive.

**While two dogs are fighting or one dog is targeted onto another dog's presence is NOT the time to introduce a dog to the ecollar stim. With proper foundation training an aggressive dog can learn self control around other dogs with amazing results. Again, train, not correct, for lasting results.

I've seen vibration training collars. Aren't these a better alternative.

**Vibration collars don't have the advantage of multiple settings like ecollars do. And with the startle effect that the dog gets from the vibration puts it in the correction use category not the training category like the ecollar.

Adopting a new Dog

2009-08-18T13:40:00.000-07:00

A common mistake adopters make is giving the new dog too much freedom too soon. Freedom should be earned slowly as the new dog becomes more reliable with housetraining and the new owners have some basic control of the dog. Investing in a crate is the fastest and safest way to housetrain the new dog/puppy. Even if the dog was reliable in the previous home, accidents happen. Use the crate to get your dog on a routine and stick with it until you know he is reliable.

The crate will also give the dog/puppy a safe place to get used to the new surroundings. After a long walk or playtime let him rest in his crate and observe his new family as they go about their business. Let him sleep, chew on a toy or just hang out. This will help him learn to chill out while the family is in hectic mode and that he doesn't have to be involved in every activity.

Try not to go overboard with the doting. It is best for his development to give him some space and time alone. Ignore him occasionally. We want to create a dog that can handle being left alone when the owners are out and not be totally dependant on humans for emotional support. Do your little dog (this goes for puppies too) a favor and put them on the floor. Let them be a dog and experience the world at their own eye level most of the time. You can cuddle when it's nap time.

Make sure children in the home understand how to properly interact with dogs and puppies before bringing one home. No tail grabbing, ear pulling or surprise attacks on the sleeping dog. Play games with puppies that don't encourage grabbing at hands or chasing pant legs. Even most adult dogs like a good game of fetch. Toss one toy and have another ready so you can get him to drop the first toy as you toss the second one. Have the family or the kids stand about 10 feet apart and encourage the dog/puppy to come to each person in turn and reward with a tiny treat. Check out the internet or book stores for more games to play.

Introduce the new dog to a resident dog on neutral territory like a park or just down the street. If possible take your dog with you when choosing a second dog. Make sure the dogs are compatible in energy levels if you are looking for a playmate for your dog.

If you are looking to get a second dog with an adult or senior dog in the home don't leave it up to the old kid to show the new kid the ropes. You don't want to pass on any bad habits. Seek out a dog trainer to help with questions and concerns before you adopt, to help you pick out the right dog for your situation, help transition the new dog, and get you started on training your new dog to prevent misbehavior in the future.

Housetraining

2009-08-18T13:27:00.001-07:00

First off the pup must be watched at all times. The easiest way to do this is by limiting his free space. The use of baby gates to keep him from straying help but are sometimes impractical or still give him too many places to wonder off out of sight.

My favorite method is to tether the pup to me whenever he is in the house but not in his crate. I do this by attaching a carabineer to the end of a five or six foot leash and attaching that to my pocket or belt loop.(See picture above) This then, easily attaches to the dog’s collar.

The pup will always be insight no matter where you are and will begin following his leader around the house. Note: Don’t jerk the pup around. Don’t make a big deal out of each and every time you head off in a new direction either. Just take off easy so the pup has time to get up or take notice that you are on the move.

Keep an eye out for any squatting or circling and startle the pup, if you must, to interrupt him and get him outside immediately. Don't scold the pup. A sharp clap of the hands, a startling NO, or a tug on the leash is the only correction necessary. And NEVER rub the pup's nose in the mess.

Taking the pup to the same spot every time can encourage your pup to potty.

Most dogs like to go back to the same spot or area because of their own familiar scent.

Give the pup plently of time to potty. When he does, praise him for a job well done and take him back inside. If he is more interested in playing, that's ok. Exercise will help stimulate his need to potty. Play ball or run around the yard or go for a brisk walk. If he still won't go, take him back in and crate him. Watch carefully though. You may find he needs to potty as soon as he relaxes for an instant. If needed, leave the leash on and hold the door to his crate closed with your hand. As soon as he squats, grab the leash and head back outside.

Clean any mistakes made in the house with enzyme cleaners such as Natures Miracle or Simple Solution. These cleaners eliminate the odor so your pup’s magnificent sense of smell will not detect any familiar potty spots. Remember, he is more likely to go in the same area so clean up is a must.

Dog's don't speak English. Give it a Name.

2009-08-18T13:26:00.000-07:00

My name is Not a command.

You can train your dog using the dog's name before a command as in "Joe Come" or even use the dog's name as encouragement after calling him but the dog's name itself should Never be used alone as the command.

Say for instance, you always call your dog's name, "Joe", to get him to come to you. The word "Joe" has now taken on the meaning of the command "Come". Likewise, if you yell the dog's name when he's snooping through the trash can or about to steal your lunch off the kitchen table, the dog learns that his name means 1) he's in trouble or 2) he should get away from something. This can be very confusing for dogs as one command cannot be associated with every action. Dogs become desensitized to their name.

Now imagine how confusing it would for the dog if he learned to come only to his name and now you want him to learn Sit and Stay. As the dog is sitting you must be very careful to not say his name. Even in encouraging ways. "Good boy Joe". To the dog "Joe" means "Come". The dog cannot sit/stay and come at the same time.

The dog needs to learn "Joe" what? "Joe" followed by a command tells the dog what you want him to do. "Joe sit". "Joe come". "Joe out". This way the dog learns each individual command and that his name is to get his attention and get ready to respond.

Give it a name.

Dogs have the ability to learn or recognize hundreds of words. We all use Sit, Down, Come or variations of these and other commands. We do this by associating a word with an action to get across what we want the dog to do. You can do the same with everyday words using consistency, patients and enough practice to build a clear association between the word and the action.

Name it!

"Kennel" as your dog is entering his kennel/crate.
"House" as your dog is on his way into the house.
"Outside" as you open the door for your dog to enter the backyard.
"ByeBye" as you gather the leash for a walk.
"Potty" as the dog is begining to urinate.

The opportunities are endless. Just be sure to use simple commands and use them each time your dog is doing the action you want to name. Use tiny treats to motivate your dog if needed and have fun with word play too. Just because a word means something in English doesn't mean it has to to your dog. It is just as easy to teach a dog to lift his paw and associate the word "Pony" instead of "Paw" as the dog lifts his foot.

Training Expectations

2009-08-18T13:25:00.001-07:00

Whether you own a Yorkie or a Mastiff you need to have some expectations of what you want your dog to achieve through training. If you don't expect your dog to listen to you than your dog is not going to listen to you. If you don't expect your dog to come when called every time, your dog is not going to come when called.

Envision how you want to see your dog in your life, in your home and interacting with the family and while in public. How is the dog behaving? Are you envisioning a dog that comes when called. A dog that comes when called even at the park. A dog that comes when called even while rushing toward an open gate.Your expectations will determine your dog's level of achievement. If you can overlook your dog straining at the end of a leash then your dog will always strain at the end of a leash. If you are happy with your dog walking in front of you but keeping the leash loose then that's what you will get. And that is fine. But if what you want is for your dog to walk beside you and ignore people walking by or other dogs, then you will have to up your expectations to get it.

First, you have to see what you want to achieve. (dog not jumping on people). Second you have to determine how to achieve it. (teach off and sit). Third, you have to work to achieve it. (training).

Your dog has the potential to learn everything you can envision him doing. All it takes is for you to want your dog to achieve these skills. But first you must raise your expectations and believe that your dog is capable of learning at a higher level. Believe your dog can stay in a down until you release him. Your dog can ignore other dogs. Your dog will come when called.

Set your dog up to achieve a higher level of education. But first ask yourself, "What are my own expectations of my dog".

Management vs Training

2009-08-18T13:24:00.000-07:00

Just a few words on this subject. I have often heard people say they don't need training because their dog listens to them (most of the time). Others say they can handle their dog (I'm supposing this means they have a large dog and are proud of the fact they don't get dragged to the ground on walks). Most just don't realize that what they have been doing for years is management.So why then should they train the dog?A trained dog listens all the time. If you put the dog in a down you want the dog to stay down until released. Not until he decides he's bored and wanders off. If you call your dog you want your dog to come. Not run the other direction out into the street or after the neighborhood cat. If your four year old child is carrying a cookie around the house you want the dog to not steal it from the child. Not grab the cookie, devour it and lick the remaining crumbs from the crying childs face.A dog that is put in a crate or outside because he begs while it's humans are having dinner could easily be trained to a Place command or Down stay until dinner is over. A dog that wears a head halter on walks could be trained to Heel or walk on a Loose Leash. A dog that jumps on you when you come home could be taught to Sit instead.Training is not just a bunch of commands for your dog to follow. A good training program will give your dog confidence and self-control and an understanding of where his place in the family pack is. Training is something you do every minute you spend with your dog and a lot of dogs learn bad habits because their owners unknowingly reinforced bad behavior. Take the owner who pets and soothes the dog on their lap as it growls at a family member. The dog learns this behavior is rewarding and continues, maybe escalading into a bite.In the end, a trained dog becomes a fun companion who listens to you, while the managed dog is forever restrained and confined.

Train the Dog!

2009-08-18T13:22:00.000-07:00

You fell in love with his cuteness and couldn't resist bringing him home. You loved his constant attentiveness, his endless bounding after a squeaky toy and his peaceful infant like innocence as he napped on your lap.You let slide the teeth marks on the coffee table legs and the unpleasant packages on the living room rug. He's so cute! He's just a baby! Your baby.Months have past. He's twice his puppy size. Adolescence has set in. The puppy who once adored you now ignores you. Outside the house he runs away. The squirrels, the neighbors, the sights, smells, all more enticing than your love for him.The walks have stopped. He pulls too hard. Your excuses for his new found aggression are running thin. His antisocial behavior is dismissed with a sigh. "He just doesn't like other dogs." You say. Now a knock at the door, a ring of the doorbell and panic sets in. You grab the dog to stow him away.He's older now. The cuteness is gone. The stress is overwhelming. It's them or the dog says family and friends. The breeder won't take him. The petstore waves you away. The rescue sighs at another return. He's just not the dog for you. You did everything for him, everything you could. What else is there. What could you do.He must be one of the incorrigible ones. A bad apple of sorts. He's gone from your home now but not from your heart. Still nagging, the question, at the back of your mind. What else could have been done?The words of wisdom have come to you now. Your new puppy on leash and he's listening well. Those three little words so powerful, so simple. Lesson one: good behavior is learned. Now it's off to the petstores, the parks and more.Strangers heads turn as they oogle and Ah. Your dog heels, he sits, he comes when called. They tell you they wish they had such a well behaved dog. They tug, they pull, they yell at their dog. But your wisdom has calmed you and you have just one thing to say......Train the Dog